Blessings to you all. I will never forget you.
OinM
Thursday, September 8, 2016
The Return of the Globetrotter
Early, way early, that Saturday morning, we all met downstairs at the Tulip dragging our luggage behind us and carrying a sack breakfast onto our bus to the airport. Farewell Rabat-Sale Airport. Farewell Morocco. Farewell new friends.
It's a Wrap!
We returned to Rabat and ate dinner in the Tulip's restaurant. This was the last of the teacher tour. In the morning, we had debriefing meetings with the entire cohort who had returned from their distant host schools that day. Friday morning, my thoughts fixed on the trip home.
The cohort looked a little fatigued that morning but satisfied the entire project had been what they were hoping for. We shared encounters we had had at our host schools. Some pictures were taken and we talked about how we would use the intellectual capital we had gained for the betterment of our students when we returned. "You're family is probably ready for you to be home aren't they Carl?" I was asked. "Yes, they are", I replied.
The cohort looked a little fatigued that morning but satisfied the entire project had been what they were hoping for. We shared encounters we had had at our host schools. Some pictures were taken and we talked about how we would use the intellectual capital we had gained for the betterment of our students when we returned. "You're family is probably ready for you to be home aren't they Carl?" I was asked. "Yes, they are", I replied.
The Blue City
Since we didn't have to travel from a great distance on Thursday to get back to home sweet Golden Tulip Farah Hotel, the Marrakech marauders, led by fearless Houria and our van driver set off for Chefchaouen, in the north of Morocco. It was dark when we left town and as the sun emerged and fog burned off, the scenery became progressively green as we rode north on winding two lane highways.
We stopped off for breakfast at a bakery, which resembled our donut shops, and ate French pastries with juice and some strong coffee. We made another stop in the country at a gas station with a scenic view out back.
We stopped off for breakfast at a bakery, which resembled our donut shops, and ate French pastries with juice and some strong coffee. We made another stop in the country at a gas station with a scenic view out back.
We made another stop in the country at a gas station with a scenic view out back.
We rode past small towns with children walking to school. We saw shepherds and goat herders tending their livestock. We passed women carrying children on their backs.
Chefchaouen was the most beautiful place we visited on our tour. If I ever return, I hope to just spend two or three days there shopping, dining and taking in the city from the Kasbah or the top of the mountain overlooking the city. The group went sightseeing, took pictures, shopped and toured the picturesque Kasbah.
Unbelievable end of a dream trip.
OinM
Good-bye Larbi Doghmi High School
Wednesday turned out to be our last day with Abdellatif and the students at Larbi Doghmi High School. We rode to school with our host teacher and had some good class periods during which we told stories about home life and answered questions students had written down on previous days. Todd was feeling well enough to enjoy himself again.
When the 2-hour teacher lunch break began at Noon, Abdellatif took us to his home where his wife had prepared a huge platter of couscous with stewed vegetables and beef on top of it. As I recall, it was the only meal we drank water that wasn't bottled. Abdellatif had a water filter.
We chatted about Moroccan television shows. Table conversation meandered from how amazing the platter of food looked and tasted to the best strategy to get the beef on top of the couscous to fall to our side of the platter so we could claim it for our own. Abdellatif told us a story about when he was a boy and his parents would ask how he got all the meat to fall to his side of the family couscous platter. It was a good laugh.
Dessert in a Moroccan home is generally some very good fruit and this meal was no exception. Some of the homes we visited had platters of pastries in a variety of shapes and flavors. They are excellent with a glass of hot Moroccan mint tea. Our hosts were kind and kept the food flowing until we said the word Abdellatif taught us: Safi! (saw-fee) Enough! Stop! No more! We tried. It wasn't always successful. I will never forget the hospitality extended to us during the time we spent in Moroccan homes. I tell my students "If you get a chance to travel to Morocco one day, jump on it with both feet!"
We returned to school that afternoon and frantically passed out what was left of our stock of USA/Morocco plastic bracelets, and U.S. quarters with Oklahoma on the back. The bracelets were so popular that on Monday we had kids following us into the teacher's break room, which was off limits to students without expressed permission from the staff. We waved good-bye to several classrooms as we passed by and there were students standing on chairs and cheering us as we departed. We felt like it had been a successful cultural and academic exchange.
A Rabat Tuesday
By Tuesday morning, Todd had taken ill. All us local TGC folks felt terrible for him and Abdellatif made the call for me to stay at the hotel just in case so we played hookey that day. The silver lining was we were able to use that time to rest and that would get Todd onto the road to recovery giving us strength for the home stretch of the adventure.
After catching up on some e-mails and napping a little, I walked down the street and picked up a couple of souvenirs to bring home. A student had asked for Moroccan food so I acquired a bag of couscous and found some interesting hot pepper sauce for our cabinet. Simple things which would be reminders of the time in Morocco.
Evening rolled around and dinner time arrived. I decided to walk over to a very nice below ground plaza and pick up dinner for both of us at a nice restaurant with dining under the stars. I waited for the order and looked around at the families, young people, parents and business types. 'Except for the languages, it could have been downtown Tulsa. The waiter finally brought the two sandwiches and an "egg burger" in a paper bag. I carried the meal back and dropped Todd's chicken sandwich off with him before eating, and turning in for the night. It had been a restful day and Todd was fighting off his cough.
Tough day on the trail but improving by the minute!
OinM
After catching up on some e-mails and napping a little, I walked down the street and picked up a couple of souvenirs to bring home. A student had asked for Moroccan food so I acquired a bag of couscous and found some interesting hot pepper sauce for our cabinet. Simple things which would be reminders of the time in Morocco.
Evening rolled around and dinner time arrived. I decided to walk over to a very nice below ground plaza and pick up dinner for both of us at a nice restaurant with dining under the stars. I waited for the order and looked around at the families, young people, parents and business types. 'Except for the languages, it could have been downtown Tulsa. The waiter finally brought the two sandwiches and an "egg burger" in a paper bag. I carried the meal back and dropped Todd's chicken sandwich off with him before eating, and turning in for the night. It had been a restful day and Todd was fighting off his cough.
Tough day on the trail but improving by the minute!
OinM
Back to School
Monday mornings at Larbi Doghmi High School mean students and staff gather in the courtyard for the raising of the Moroccan flag and singing of the Moroccan National Song. The student driven and enacted activities start the school week on a proud note of patriotism and unity of the student body. It was evident many were proud for us to see this informal ceremony with students lined up out of respect.
Students smiled and greeted us enthusiastically again. We got to visit classes that morning and then after some time in the break room we presented slideshows about our lives in America and our schools. In attendance were our host teacher, some faculty members their students and a handful of parents. It was another good chance for us to share our love for teaching high school students and give them an understanding of what life is like in the U.S.. At this meeting, we distributed some souvenirs and local tourism literature.
One of the highlights for every student we encountered was the fact we were native English speakers and we delivered the only pure English commentary they have heard. Todd and I were getting better and better at friendly banter which was entertaining for the classes we were visiting throughout the experience. We spent a short time in the break room and students were sent to take us to another class to observe and introduce ourselves to.
Abdellatif took us back to the hotel after school and we met other members of our cohort, placed in Rabat-Sale for dinner at Coq Magic, which turned out to be a frequent dining spot during that second week of the field work. Bad news was, Todd was not feeling very well and the night air was a little chilly.
Feeling like locals by now.
OinM
Students smiled and greeted us enthusiastically again. We got to visit classes that morning and then after some time in the break room we presented slideshows about our lives in America and our schools. In attendance were our host teacher, some faculty members their students and a handful of parents. It was another good chance for us to share our love for teaching high school students and give them an understanding of what life is like in the U.S.. At this meeting, we distributed some souvenirs and local tourism literature.
One of the highlights for every student we encountered was the fact we were native English speakers and we delivered the only pure English commentary they have heard. Todd and I were getting better and better at friendly banter which was entertaining for the classes we were visiting throughout the experience. We spent a short time in the break room and students were sent to take us to another class to observe and introduce ourselves to.
Abdellatif took us back to the hotel after school and we met other members of our cohort, placed in Rabat-Sale for dinner at Coq Magic, which turned out to be a frequent dining spot during that second week of the field work. Bad news was, Todd was not feeling very well and the night air was a little chilly.
Feeling like locals by now.
OinM
The Marrakech Express
Saturday night we decided the Sunday train ride to Marrakech was a go! Todd stood in line when we got back to Rabat and picked up tickets for the next morning. We walked back to the hotel, hopeful we would see another important city in Morocco's history and some desert terrain. We rose Sunday to another gorgeous day. A holy day for Moroccans. This particular holy day had some extra intrigue we were unaware of until we reached the train station platform.
We had been on the platform for about half an hour and our train had not pulled into the station yet. There were several 20 something year olds climbing down the steep plateaued ledges that rose on the opposite sides of the track. It seemed odd and we weren't the only ones who noticed. A German Shepherd was gated into a stair well nearby to keep people from entering the side of the track we were on. The watchdog was barking at the men climbing down the far wall but no train station personnel paid any attention.
The trains which were arriving, from both directions, were filled with young men. As they poured out onto the platform, they formed up into groups, yelled some things about Maroc in unison, waved Moroccan flags and them proceeded in fluid motion up the stairways and into the station. We speculated on what the commotion was and even though we ascertained it had nothing to do with us, we walked to the far end of the platform to wait without intruding on the festivities.
We discussed going back to the hotel and canceling the journey to Marrakech but after about 15 more minutes waiting, our train finally arrived, full of men, shouting waving flags and climbing the steps. Maybe it was a soccer game? Some kind of independence day? We had no idea and spent the only few moments of the trip we weren't entirely comfortable keeping a low profile and refraining from taking photographs. We ran down the platform, trying to find the car we belonged in and boarded the train in time to enjoy about a 4 hour train ride on the Marrakech Express.
I get home and my Dad sends me this link of a Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young video at Farm Aid:
The Marrakech Express
We arrived in Marrakech and went to meet some other TGC fellows who were traveling that day. We waited in a hotel lobby and exchanged some currency while we waited for them to return from shopping on the Square. When they arrived, it was lunch time so we all walked over to a high end hotel restaurant which serves many good Moroccan dishes. The train delay left us a little shorter on time than we had hoped but after lunch we walked to Jemaa El Fnaa Square.
Jemaa El Fnaa has food vendors, hotels, businesses, snake charmers, monkey keepers and curious visitors. For 20 Dirhams, one can have a photo made holding a non-poisonous snake or charming a venomous snake. If primates are your thing, a photo with a monkey can be purchased. We had to go before the food cart vendors began to fill the square that evening. There were six of us riding to the train station. We were about to make another cultural discovery.
UN Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon had made a speech about Morocco. In his remarks, he had stated Western Sahara was not a part of Morocco. Loyal Moroccans had taken to the trains and rode to Rabat to meet in protest of the inflammatory statements. Four million Moroccans had traveled to Rabat just to protest the Secretary-General's idea that Morocco wasn't a sovereign state, entitled to all it's lands to the south. Yeah, that's what the trainloads of men that morning had been about.
Problem at that point was the trains had been running behind all day. When would be passengers in the Marrakech Train Station found out they weren't traveling that evening due to the schedule being now hours behind, they didn't take the news without waving fists and shouting at railroad employees to express their displeasure. Houria Kherdi, host teacher for another TGC teaching team thought quickly and arranged a bus back to Rabat. We would arrive late in the evening but we would be back at our hotel and ready for school the next day.
Great thing about the group we were traveling with was we all understood flexibility is a key to happiness during international travel. The bus rumbled through lots of traffic until we were outside the city and safely back to Rabat. We had been witness to an impressive moment in Moroccan life. Of 34 million citizens, 4 million had traveled, protest and were now trying to get home, just like us.
We had been on the platform for about half an hour and our train had not pulled into the station yet. There were several 20 something year olds climbing down the steep plateaued ledges that rose on the opposite sides of the track. It seemed odd and we weren't the only ones who noticed. A German Shepherd was gated into a stair well nearby to keep people from entering the side of the track we were on. The watchdog was barking at the men climbing down the far wall but no train station personnel paid any attention.
The trains which were arriving, from both directions, were filled with young men. As they poured out onto the platform, they formed up into groups, yelled some things about Maroc in unison, waved Moroccan flags and them proceeded in fluid motion up the stairways and into the station. We speculated on what the commotion was and even though we ascertained it had nothing to do with us, we walked to the far end of the platform to wait without intruding on the festivities.
We discussed going back to the hotel and canceling the journey to Marrakech but after about 15 more minutes waiting, our train finally arrived, full of men, shouting waving flags and climbing the steps. Maybe it was a soccer game? Some kind of independence day? We had no idea and spent the only few moments of the trip we weren't entirely comfortable keeping a low profile and refraining from taking photographs. We ran down the platform, trying to find the car we belonged in and boarded the train in time to enjoy about a 4 hour train ride on the Marrakech Express.
I get home and my Dad sends me this link of a Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young video at Farm Aid:
The Marrakech Express
We arrived in Marrakech and went to meet some other TGC fellows who were traveling that day. We waited in a hotel lobby and exchanged some currency while we waited for them to return from shopping on the Square. When they arrived, it was lunch time so we all walked over to a high end hotel restaurant which serves many good Moroccan dishes. The train delay left us a little shorter on time than we had hoped but after lunch we walked to Jemaa El Fnaa Square.
Jemaa El Fnaa has food vendors, hotels, businesses, snake charmers, monkey keepers and curious visitors. For 20 Dirhams, one can have a photo made holding a non-poisonous snake or charming a venomous snake. If primates are your thing, a photo with a monkey can be purchased. We had to go before the food cart vendors began to fill the square that evening. There were six of us riding to the train station. We were about to make another cultural discovery.
UN Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon had made a speech about Morocco. In his remarks, he had stated Western Sahara was not a part of Morocco. Loyal Moroccans had taken to the trains and rode to Rabat to meet in protest of the inflammatory statements. Four million Moroccans had traveled to Rabat just to protest the Secretary-General's idea that Morocco wasn't a sovereign state, entitled to all it's lands to the south. Yeah, that's what the trainloads of men that morning had been about.
Problem at that point was the trains had been running behind all day. When would be passengers in the Marrakech Train Station found out they weren't traveling that evening due to the schedule being now hours behind, they didn't take the news without waving fists and shouting at railroad employees to express their displeasure. Houria Kherdi, host teacher for another TGC teaching team thought quickly and arranged a bus back to Rabat. We would arrive late in the evening but we would be back at our hotel and ready for school the next day.
Great thing about the group we were traveling with was we all understood flexibility is a key to happiness during international travel. The bus rumbled through lots of traffic until we were outside the city and safely back to Rabat. We had been witness to an impressive moment in Moroccan life. Of 34 million citizens, 4 million had traveled, protest and were now trying to get home, just like us.
Fes the Incredible
Ah, Saturday morning found Todd and myself learning how to travel by train to the heart of Morocco, historic Fes. It was a beautiful day and we briskly walked the .5 km to the Rabat train station. The tickets were easy to get and the train was on time. The cars were very comfortable and we had a compartment to ourselves. The train sped across the River Bouregreg through Sale and then East towards Fes.
We had the great fortune to be guided by Bakou Karim. Karim is a Teaching Excellence and Achievement (TEA) fellow and has spent 6 weeks in the U.S. participating in a similar program to TGC. He teaches airline attendants. He greeted us at the Fes train station with a contagious smile and boisterous laugh. We met some of his students passing through the Fes medina and they had great respect for him.
One thing we noticed, was how Moroccans pay a lot of attention to children in public places. It is not uncommon to see perfect strangers patting children on the head or putting a hand on the side of their faces. More than once, Karim passed a child and acknowledge them, touching the top of their head. The parents just smiled and Karim would compliment the child, then move on through the medina.
After a 3 hour train ride and some sightseeing, it was time for lunch so Karim took us through a very narrow side path from the medina to a restaurant called Cafe Clock. Cafe Clock serves, among many other delicious dishes, a camel burger. Three camel burgers it was. The surroundings were what we were learning is classic Moroccan decor. Clock has thick stone walls and narrow winding stairwells. It was a very memorable lunch.
Afterwards, we walked through the medina, shopping in the souks. Karim did some bargaining with the vendors and told the owner of a store grinding argan kernels and selling argan oil for both cooking and cosmetics to give us a good price because we were not tourists. We were friends, he said. At a kiosk selling handmade candies, Karim pointed at a package of peanut nougat and said "Before there was Snickers, there was this!" His friend behind the counter made a give of small paper plates of several pieces of various flavors of nougat. The sun began setting outside the city wall on a great day of learning about this ancient place. It was time to race back to the train station.
Karim wove the car through some thick stop-and-go traffic and got us there in time to catch the train home. We said our thank yous and good-byes and literally rode the train into the sunset. I opened the gift plate of nougat on the train back to Rabat. It was very good. A sweet ending to an unforgettable excursion. Todd and I had planned to travel to Marrakech the next morning. We mulled over the prospect "should we stay or should be go?" Sunday morning would tell or would we sort it out that night in Rabat?
Should we stay or should we go? Hmmm.
OinM
Among other aspects of historical significance, Fes is the home of the Fez.
We had the great fortune to be guided by Bakou Karim. Karim is a Teaching Excellence and Achievement (TEA) fellow and has spent 6 weeks in the U.S. participating in a similar program to TGC. He teaches airline attendants. He greeted us at the Fes train station with a contagious smile and boisterous laugh. We met some of his students passing through the Fes medina and they had great respect for him.
One thing we noticed, was how Moroccans pay a lot of attention to children in public places. It is not uncommon to see perfect strangers patting children on the head or putting a hand on the side of their faces. More than once, Karim passed a child and acknowledge them, touching the top of their head. The parents just smiled and Karim would compliment the child, then move on through the medina.
After a 3 hour train ride and some sightseeing, it was time for lunch so Karim took us through a very narrow side path from the medina to a restaurant called Cafe Clock. Cafe Clock serves, among many other delicious dishes, a camel burger. Three camel burgers it was. The surroundings were what we were learning is classic Moroccan decor. Clock has thick stone walls and narrow winding stairwells. It was a very memorable lunch.
Afterwards, we walked through the medina, shopping in the souks. Karim did some bargaining with the vendors and told the owner of a store grinding argan kernels and selling argan oil for both cooking and cosmetics to give us a good price because we were not tourists. We were friends, he said. At a kiosk selling handmade candies, Karim pointed at a package of peanut nougat and said "Before there was Snickers, there was this!" His friend behind the counter made a give of small paper plates of several pieces of various flavors of nougat. The sun began setting outside the city wall on a great day of learning about this ancient place. It was time to race back to the train station.
Karim wove the car through some thick stop-and-go traffic and got us there in time to catch the train home. We said our thank yous and good-byes and literally rode the train into the sunset. I opened the gift plate of nougat on the train back to Rabat. It was very good. A sweet ending to an unforgettable excursion. Todd and I had planned to travel to Marrakech the next morning. We mulled over the prospect "should we stay or should be go?" Sunday morning would tell or would we sort it out that night in Rabat?
Should we stay or should we go? Hmmm.
OinM
Wednesday, September 7, 2016
Cultural Exchange
On Friday, we had school again. Abdellatif picked us up from the Helnan Chellah and drove us to school. The drive from downtown Rabat to Temara is highlighted by passing Mohammed V University, a soccer stadium, a building that looks like an elementary school I attended many years ago and the Maroc Telecom building. The MT building is very high tech and has large antennae on the roof not unlike the Hancock building in Chicago. At night, the glass sides of the building are lit up with lots of colorful designs that look like rippling water, stripes, squares, plaid and spotlights.
Todd brought his laptop and was showing students in a math class pictures of his school and community in Ithaca, New York. The crowded around him to see while the Calculus teacher rubbed his chin between his fingers and soaked in all the information. Quick with the camera, the moment was captured digitally. The photo sums up the experiences we had at our schools and shows how much fun we had interacting with all our hosts.
We returned to school for the afternoon with students showing more and more interest in our presence. That evening, we spoke to a group of English teachers about teaching methodology and 21st Century competencies. It was a very enjoyable night. After we spoke, teacher after teacher greeted us and told us how much they enjoyed visiting the U.S. or how they hoped to visit one day. We traded e-mail addresses and it was time to go back to the hotel so Abdellatif drove us back to downtown Rabat.
Exchanging ideas was a great time.
OinM
Todd brought his laptop and was showing students in a math class pictures of his school and community in Ithaca, New York. The crowded around him to see while the Calculus teacher rubbed his chin between his fingers and soaked in all the information. Quick with the camera, the moment was captured digitally. The photo sums up the experiences we had at our schools and shows how much fun we had interacting with all our hosts.
Abdellatif took us to his home at lunch time and then to a Turkish restaurant in Temara named Istanbul Express. We sat on the covered patio, just off the street. Our waiter was wearing a New York Yankees baseball cap. I ordered Turkish style pizza and passionfruit soda. Abdellatif ordered Turkish bread.
Exchanging ideas was a great time.
OinM
Friday, September 2, 2016
Our Host School - Larbi Doghmi High School
Thursday of our first week in Morocco, our cohort was divided into partners after lunch and we all bid a temporary farewell to the Golden Tulip Farah Hotel. My partner teacher, Todd, and I were assigned to Larbi Doghmi High School in Temara, a suburb just south of Rabat. Larbi Doghmi was a famous Moroccan actor in the 1960's and 1970's as the Internet Movie DataBase notes at this link: http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0488015/ . His picture hangs in the teacher break room at the school.
Todd and I found our new space at a place Abdellatif had suggested, in downtown Rabat called The Helnan Chellah Hotel. The Helnan Chellah which still deals in metal keys and doors locked by key from within and without, has a charm all its own. The woodwork and furniture were extravagant. There are many paintings and artworks on display to add to the mansion-like atmosphere. The stairwells are marble. Just off the lobby is an ornately tiled tea service area. As we became accustomed to the historic decor the amenities, such as the 6th Floor Boys Club, we liked the place more and more. The location was near the Ministry of Defense, not much further from the train station and numerous local eateries.
Our host teacher was Abdellatif El Merced (Obb-dell-uh-teff). He is an English teacher. His classes are full because learning English is very popular in Morocco. Students believe learning English can help them connect to English speaking countries Morocco benefits from economically and socially. The El Merced family consists of Abdellatif, his wife and two daughters. Abdellatif is always working to improve his teaching skills and methods which made the conversations we had in transit to and from school and during the lunches he invited us to lively and meaningful. He went out of his way to make sure we had access to some very good homemade food in the break room during down time.
We were introduced to the office staff and shown some classrooms. The Principal was a friendly gentleman who made us feel at home in his office. He proudly showed us his security measures and the student attendance software he had recently received. He indicated it was making his life much easier. There was also what looked like a card catalog with student photos stapled to each card which were in the process of being phased out. He could read written English and spoke French well enough it didn't take Todd and me long to understand his ideas. We enjoyed a couple of visits in that office during our time in his school.
As we walked across the school courtyard, which was completely enclosed by 3 floors of classroom buildings with gates on the ends, it was time for class change. As Todd and I walked along the sidewalks with Abdellatif, Students were smiling and waving from the upper floors and all around us at ground level. Some had bewildered looks on their faces and many turned to their friends to whisper about what they were seeing. The students in each class were instructed to stand when we entered the rooms as a show of respect. It was humbling.
We visited the science lab and storeroom as part of the grand tour. I had brought along a box of Oklahoma rose rocks. They are barite stones which are shaped like roses and colored rust red. I had been offering the small stones to the administrators and staff members during the tour. As we were greeted I explained to each person, with varying amounts of interpretation, there are only two places on Earth rose rocks are naturally formed: Oklahoma and Australia.
When we met a physical science teacher decked out in lab coat and glasses, I held the box up to him and he looked inside. He picked up a stone he liked and then quickly snatched up two more. It was humorous and I felt a wide-eyed smile crossing my face. As a result, there are now genuine Oklahoma barite rose rocks in the Larbi Doghmi High School science geological sample inventory. I was enjoying sharing gifts, culture and science with our neighbors.
The afternoon flew by and Abdellatif took us back to the hotel. There were two graying Japanese couples who had arrived on a tour bus wheeling their luggage down the hall together when it was time to go back to the room for the night. They seemed so content to be there together and I saw their love for international travel in their eyes. It was like I was sharing their joy to be in a historic place like Morocco and I appreciated the privilege even more. A couple of revolutions of the old metal key and I was in for the night.
Trail wasn't even half explored yet!
OinM
Todd and I found our new space at a place Abdellatif had suggested, in downtown Rabat called The Helnan Chellah Hotel. The Helnan Chellah which still deals in metal keys and doors locked by key from within and without, has a charm all its own. The woodwork and furniture were extravagant. There are many paintings and artworks on display to add to the mansion-like atmosphere. The stairwells are marble. Just off the lobby is an ornately tiled tea service area. As we became accustomed to the historic decor the amenities, such as the 6th Floor Boys Club, we liked the place more and more. The location was near the Ministry of Defense, not much further from the train station and numerous local eateries.
Our host teacher was Abdellatif El Merced (Obb-dell-uh-teff). He is an English teacher. His classes are full because learning English is very popular in Morocco. Students believe learning English can help them connect to English speaking countries Morocco benefits from economically and socially. The El Merced family consists of Abdellatif, his wife and two daughters. Abdellatif is always working to improve his teaching skills and methods which made the conversations we had in transit to and from school and during the lunches he invited us to lively and meaningful. He went out of his way to make sure we had access to some very good homemade food in the break room during down time.
We were introduced to the office staff and shown some classrooms. The Principal was a friendly gentleman who made us feel at home in his office. He proudly showed us his security measures and the student attendance software he had recently received. He indicated it was making his life much easier. There was also what looked like a card catalog with student photos stapled to each card which were in the process of being phased out. He could read written English and spoke French well enough it didn't take Todd and me long to understand his ideas. We enjoyed a couple of visits in that office during our time in his school.
As we walked across the school courtyard, which was completely enclosed by 3 floors of classroom buildings with gates on the ends, it was time for class change. As Todd and I walked along the sidewalks with Abdellatif, Students were smiling and waving from the upper floors and all around us at ground level. Some had bewildered looks on their faces and many turned to their friends to whisper about what they were seeing. The students in each class were instructed to stand when we entered the rooms as a show of respect. It was humbling.
We visited the science lab and storeroom as part of the grand tour. I had brought along a box of Oklahoma rose rocks. They are barite stones which are shaped like roses and colored rust red. I had been offering the small stones to the administrators and staff members during the tour. As we were greeted I explained to each person, with varying amounts of interpretation, there are only two places on Earth rose rocks are naturally formed: Oklahoma and Australia.
When we met a physical science teacher decked out in lab coat and glasses, I held the box up to him and he looked inside. He picked up a stone he liked and then quickly snatched up two more. It was humorous and I felt a wide-eyed smile crossing my face. As a result, there are now genuine Oklahoma barite rose rocks in the Larbi Doghmi High School science geological sample inventory. I was enjoying sharing gifts, culture and science with our neighbors.
The afternoon flew by and Abdellatif took us back to the hotel. There were two graying Japanese couples who had arrived on a tour bus wheeling their luggage down the hall together when it was time to go back to the room for the night. They seemed so content to be there together and I saw their love for international travel in their eyes. It was like I was sharing their joy to be in a historic place like Morocco and I appreciated the privilege even more. A couple of revolutions of the old metal key and I was in for the night.
Trail wasn't even half explored yet!
OinM
Wednesday, April 6, 2016
Language Navigation
During the process of finding out which country and host school we were assigned to for this field experience, the country, Morocco, was revealed the afternoon before holiday break. Then it was just a matter of learning our city assignments and host teacher contact information. At the proper time, Max, the ever present "man behind the curtain" told us we were assigned to Larbi Doghmi High School in Temara, a suburb of Rabat.
My original Okie English pronunciation of Temara was Tuh-mar-uh so when others asked which city Todd and I were assigned to, I said "they told us Tuh-mar-uh and we said, No, we want to know tonight!" So by the time we got to Rabat, the word had evolved into Tuh-mare-uh. When we met Meriem and she asked us what city we were assigned to, we proudly said Tuh-mare-uh. She gave us an odd look, as only Meriem can, and then half smiling, half snickering said "You're going to hardship? Tuh-mare-uh means hardship!"
"Uhhhh, that's not where we want to go," we replied. "It's pronounced Tem-rruh" Meriem helpfully added. The rest of the journey, Todd and I pronounced that southern suburb of Rabat as Tem-rruh. And that's just one of the many times Meriem rescued us from hardship.
My original Okie English pronunciation of Temara was Tuh-mar-uh so when others asked which city Todd and I were assigned to, I said "they told us Tuh-mar-uh and we said, No, we want to know tonight!" So by the time we got to Rabat, the word had evolved into Tuh-mare-uh. When we met Meriem and she asked us what city we were assigned to, we proudly said Tuh-mare-uh. She gave us an odd look, as only Meriem can, and then half smiling, half snickering said "You're going to hardship? Tuh-mare-uh means hardship!"
"Uhhhh, that's not where we want to go," we replied. "It's pronounced Tem-rruh" Meriem helpfully added. The rest of the journey, Todd and I pronounced that southern suburb of Rabat as Tem-rruh. And that's just one of the many times Meriem rescued us from hardship.
Monday, March 21, 2016
The Tradition Continues,...
Wednesday evening, we were scheduled to attend an education conference at Mohammed V University in Rabat. My partner teacher, Todd, made a nice presentation about how he approaches the teaching of Algebra in his classroom. Knocked it outta tha park!
Tea break was approaching and a student at the university had just presented about his understanding of competency-based learning and stated we are in an information-based society so we have to get information to our students. The floor was opened for questions and comments. I pressed the button on the microphone in front of me at the end of the long table on my side of the room.
This conference room had a very nice u-shaped conference table arrangement and there was a nice projector with a big projection screen on the wall furthest from the speaker. There were horizontal air conditioning units on each end of the room near what must have been a 20 foot ceiling. The walls were lined with cork. There was wiring showing working its way out of a hole in the cork in the corner of the room opposite me and some conduits out in the open air.
It had been enjoyable where I was sitting because the weather in Rabat was mild and my seat was facing east. I know this because the wide door to the conference hall was open and I could feel the warm late afternoon sun on my back, alternating with the sensation of a pleasant 65 degree breeze. It was the best seat in the house.
The light on the microphone turned red and I asked my question, adding some comments supporting the last speaker. "You mentioned we are in an information-based society", I began. "Are you familiar with a book by Daniel Pink entitled A Whole New Mind?" I listed Pink's credentials to be speaking on the topic of the future, economics and human interactions. I went on, to paraphrase: In it, Pink asserts we are now in a conceptual society in which the abundance of goods, globally, has brought us to a place in which the information itself is plentiful and that due to current technologies, the conceptual learners are being prepared for the future in which they will have jobs that don't exist yet using tools that haven't been invented yet. Have you thought about how student-guided study can allow students to learn the key concepts about our subject material and develop the critical thinking skills necessary to be successful in a future like that?
I then listened attentively to his response. The student said he wasn't familiar with Pink's work. He reiterated the idea the information, which I had mentioned is plentiful for anyone holding a smart phone, is still king and that's what needs to be taught. "Thank you!" I said.
And that's when I learned something about the tradition of the Moroccan education system. A gentleman who wasn't sitting anywhere near the best seat in the house and whom I could not see from my vantage point began to teach us all about the "French System" of educating students. He insisted the French system was "the best" and didn't understand why Moroccan educators wanted to adopt the American approach to learning. He continued to say students could not and should not be allowed to drive their own learning (Remember the cell phones?). Everyone listened as his rant went on.
"Every student in Morocco receives a free education from youth through college" he droned on with his British accent. His breathing labored and it was apparent someone had struck a nerve with the man. "Teachers in America run up huge debts for their education, which they can not pay. When they can not pay their loans back, they are sent to jail!" That's when I leaned over and softly told the teacher next to me, "When I graduated with my undergrad degree, I didn't owe anyone anything for college". Can't blame the guy for being passionate about his cause but I still don't think the French way is the only way!
He finished his diatribe, coming off much like the last of a dying breed, going "into that good night" although not quietly. Tea break! I eased over to a few of the members of my travel cohort and said "I wasn't trying to dismantle the entire Moroccan education system with one comment." They assured me it wasn't my speech which sent the French education proponent into his soliloquy. I said, "Yeah. That guy had an ax to grind a long time before I got here!"
Not sure if he returned to the meetings after the tea break but this event began to unlock my understanding of Moroccan education. The teacher does all the thinking in the classroom. The students listen and repeat. They take some tests and still, figuratively speaking, have a head full of rocks. There is no room for the student being creative or learning outside the proverbial box. Understood.
During the break, the student I had agreed with in the conference walked over and introduced himself. "I'm Aziz and I would like to continue discussing this after you return home,...May I have your e-mail?" "Yes, you may", I replied. We talked for about 5 minutes and then some other students needed him elsewhere so we parted ways. I began to see the potential for Moroccan education based on Aziz' desire to interact with teachers and learn all he could about teaching 21st century students. It made me feel a lot better about the evening.
OinM
During the break, the student I had agreed with in the conference walked over and introduced himself. "I'm Aziz and I would like to continue discussing this after you return home,...May I have your e-mail?" "Yes, you may", I replied. We talked for about 5 minutes and then some other students needed him elsewhere so we parted ways. I began to see the potential for Moroccan education based on Aziz' desire to interact with teachers and learn all he could about teaching 21st century students. It made me feel a lot better about the evening.
OinM
Wednesday, March 16, 2016
Tradition & Tradition
Wednesday morning, we were welcomed to Abi Dar Alghiffari Baccalaureate High School. Dates and milk were delicately served to us as this is a Moroccan tradition. We joined the staff in eating and drinking the ceremonial foods before our tour of the school. After we toured the school and observed English and Science classrooms, we were served tea.
During the tea, I was answering questions students had about how to go to school in America. Student Chadi, said "I have a problem with time management". I told them all specifically to work to have high grades, participate in extra activities and write them on the applications, then to apply for financial aid at the universities they hope to attend, on time. "Especially you, Chadi!" When we were finished talking, I gave Shadi an Oklahoma scissor-tail flycatcher quarter so he would remember the Oklahoman.
I was still talking with kids when the pleasantries of the tea were being exchanged so I was finally ushered to the table to enjoy a glass and some delicious Moroccan pastries. Students had been listening intently and said they liked my accent. I will try to write with an Okie drawl from this post on. Can you hear it?
Chadi came to the gate to say good-bye. We exchanged a natural urban handshake. He stepped back. "I will miss you", he said. "I'll miss you too."
Later on the bus, riding away from the school I asked a colleague from Tennessee, "Hey Allison, did any of the students just want to listen to you talk?" She said "Yes, they did! They said I talk slowly so they can understand better." Note to self: Moroccan students of English like the southerners.
That evening, we would begin to understand another tradition.
OinM
During the tea, I was answering questions students had about how to go to school in America. Student Chadi, said "I have a problem with time management". I told them all specifically to work to have high grades, participate in extra activities and write them on the applications, then to apply for financial aid at the universities they hope to attend, on time. "Especially you, Chadi!" When we were finished talking, I gave Shadi an Oklahoma scissor-tail flycatcher quarter so he would remember the Oklahoman.
I was still talking with kids when the pleasantries of the tea were being exchanged so I was finally ushered to the table to enjoy a glass and some delicious Moroccan pastries. Students had been listening intently and said they liked my accent. I will try to write with an Okie drawl from this post on. Can you hear it?
Chadi came to the gate to say good-bye. We exchanged a natural urban handshake. He stepped back. "I will miss you", he said. "I'll miss you too."
Later on the bus, riding away from the school I asked a colleague from Tennessee, "Hey Allison, did any of the students just want to listen to you talk?" She said "Yes, they did! They said I talk slowly so they can understand better." Note to self: Moroccan students of English like the southerners.
That evening, we would begin to understand another tradition.
OinM
Boys Club
So much to post. We have been traveling to historic cities over the weekend and were back at our schools on Monday. Much more on those days later.
After five days in our current hotel, we noticed a sign above a downstairs elevator that says 6th Floor Terrasse Panoramique. I said, "Hey, you want to go check it out?" We rode a grown up elevator (The guest elevators are very small and have a low capacity.) to the 6th floor where we discovered a billiard table, a workout room and a terrace with a view of the western half of the city.
Since dubbed "The Boy's Club", we have been able to eat dinner out there and relax while we wait for the wifi to start working again. The wirless internet connection has been sporadic. When it is working, it is adequate. Last night, for instance, it was off all night from about 10:30pm here (5:30pm DST at home) throughout the night. The club is noisy during the day because there are workers breaking out old tile with a pickax. Rhythmic but monotonous.
Henceforth, Todd and I will hold all our important meetings in The Boy's Club.
I've learned a lot. I will attempt to catch up with the herd soon!
OinM
After five days in our current hotel, we noticed a sign above a downstairs elevator that says 6th Floor Terrasse Panoramique. I said, "Hey, you want to go check it out?" We rode a grown up elevator (The guest elevators are very small and have a low capacity.) to the 6th floor where we discovered a billiard table, a workout room and a terrace with a view of the western half of the city.
Since dubbed "The Boy's Club", we have been able to eat dinner out there and relax while we wait for the wifi to start working again. The wirless internet connection has been sporadic. When it is working, it is adequate. Last night, for instance, it was off all night from about 10:30pm here (5:30pm DST at home) throughout the night. The club is noisy during the day because there are workers breaking out old tile with a pickax. Rhythmic but monotonous.
Henceforth, Todd and I will hold all our important meetings in The Boy's Club.
I've learned a lot. I will attempt to catch up with the herd soon!
OinM
Wednesday, March 9, 2016
Rock the Kasbah,...of the Udayas
Our Tuesday morning meeting was about Language Planning and Education in Morocco. Meriem covered the history and philosophy of how languages have evolved here and talked about the future of languages, based on current trends. Then we made our trip to the U.S. Embassy in Rabat. It was a memorable moment as described in a previous post. The Regional English Language officer who greeted us at the embassy was named Rebecca Smoak.
We left the embassy late, and missed lunch at a famous restaurant in Rabat, called Ch'hiwates so our facilitators found another good lunch spot and everyone enjoyed another meal together. After lunch, we visited one of the top schools in the city, Moulay Youssef High School. The Principal and staff are very proud of the levels of achievement they have reached as a school community. After a campus tour, we were allowed to enter classes as a group and ask/answer questions.
When I asked a class "What is your favorite thing about school?,...What do you like most about school?" The classroom filled with laughter on the part of students and teachers. As we left, I said "I guess they don't like school", Todd said, "They just weren't ready for you yet." Snicker. There was a tea break with more of that Moroccan strong green tea with mint and sugar. Delicious.
When the last bell of the day rang, students ran out to speak with us and we were able to connect on a much more personal level. A group picture was taken by the courtyard fountain including the TGC teachers, local administrators and students. Everyone was having a good time.
I'm not sure how many selfie photos were taken in the next 10 minutes but many of us took pictures with students before it was time to go back to the bus. Most students were beaming. It is not often they are visited by teachers from the U.S.. We could tell they knew this was a big deal. "The Principal wished us au revoir! and we headed to the Kasbah.
The Kasbah of the Udayas is situated on a rocky cliff, overlooking a cemetery, a beach and the city of Sale, across the river. It is what remains of the old city and used to serve as a royal fort. According to sources, the old city of Ribat, was built at this place in 977 AD. It was defended by the Almoravids. The Almohads took over from the Amoravids around the year 1140 and rebuilt the old city/fort in 1150.
It is a spectacle because standing on the top of the kasbah, one can look out to the west and there is nothing between them and America, other than the Atlantic Ocean. The beach below had the Surf Club of King Mohammed VI and some young people were playing soccer in the sandy field they marked by scraping lines in the sand. Even from the overlook, the waves can be heard making landfall and the elegant ocean spray can be seen.
Some of the narrow alleyways and walking paths in the old city are painted bright blue and white like typical Mediterranean old world cities. Some people don't know Morocco has both an Atlantic and Mediterranean coastline. That's what makes it such a strategic point, joining North Africa and the European continent across the Straits of Gibraltar. There were peddlers, art/gift shops and at least one restaurant with a view of the water scattered throughout the maze of pathways winding around the ancient fort. Great place to end a day out.
A group of us went to dinner at a place called Aya Rosa. The food was good and I was reminded French fried potatoes are a main staple of the Moroccan diet. A few skewers of beef, chicken, kafta, lamb and some veggies helped stave off evening hunger. Of course there was plenty of bread and olives. The walks there and back were pleasant.
On the way back I stopped on the sidewalk to video a passing train for my students. The rest of the group kept moving. When two of them turned around to see where I was, they couldn't see me because there were trees between us and they were some distance down the street. They began to yell for me and I jogged to catch up. They said they couldn't see me and were looking but only saw trees. I thanked them for their concern. This cohort looks out for one another. That's why it's a pleasure to travel with them.
Another day before the rides to Temara begin.
Have a great night!
OinM
We left the embassy late, and missed lunch at a famous restaurant in Rabat, called Ch'hiwates so our facilitators found another good lunch spot and everyone enjoyed another meal together. After lunch, we visited one of the top schools in the city, Moulay Youssef High School. The Principal and staff are very proud of the levels of achievement they have reached as a school community. After a campus tour, we were allowed to enter classes as a group and ask/answer questions.
When I asked a class "What is your favorite thing about school?,...What do you like most about school?" The classroom filled with laughter on the part of students and teachers. As we left, I said "I guess they don't like school", Todd said, "They just weren't ready for you yet." Snicker. There was a tea break with more of that Moroccan strong green tea with mint and sugar. Delicious.
When the last bell of the day rang, students ran out to speak with us and we were able to connect on a much more personal level. A group picture was taken by the courtyard fountain including the TGC teachers, local administrators and students. Everyone was having a good time.
I'm not sure how many selfie photos were taken in the next 10 minutes but many of us took pictures with students before it was time to go back to the bus. Most students were beaming. It is not often they are visited by teachers from the U.S.. We could tell they knew this was a big deal. "The Principal wished us au revoir! and we headed to the Kasbah.
The Kasbah of the Udayas is situated on a rocky cliff, overlooking a cemetery, a beach and the city of Sale, across the river. It is what remains of the old city and used to serve as a royal fort. According to sources, the old city of Ribat, was built at this place in 977 AD. It was defended by the Almoravids. The Almohads took over from the Amoravids around the year 1140 and rebuilt the old city/fort in 1150.
It is a spectacle because standing on the top of the kasbah, one can look out to the west and there is nothing between them and America, other than the Atlantic Ocean. The beach below had the Surf Club of King Mohammed VI and some young people were playing soccer in the sandy field they marked by scraping lines in the sand. Even from the overlook, the waves can be heard making landfall and the elegant ocean spray can be seen.
Some of the narrow alleyways and walking paths in the old city are painted bright blue and white like typical Mediterranean old world cities. Some people don't know Morocco has both an Atlantic and Mediterranean coastline. That's what makes it such a strategic point, joining North Africa and the European continent across the Straits of Gibraltar. There were peddlers, art/gift shops and at least one restaurant with a view of the water scattered throughout the maze of pathways winding around the ancient fort. Great place to end a day out.
A group of us went to dinner at a place called Aya Rosa. The food was good and I was reminded French fried potatoes are a main staple of the Moroccan diet. A few skewers of beef, chicken, kafta, lamb and some veggies helped stave off evening hunger. Of course there was plenty of bread and olives. The walks there and back were pleasant.
On the way back I stopped on the sidewalk to video a passing train for my students. The rest of the group kept moving. When two of them turned around to see where I was, they couldn't see me because there were trees between us and they were some distance down the street. They began to yell for me and I jogged to catch up. They said they couldn't see me and were looking but only saw trees. I thanked them for their concern. This cohort looks out for one another. That's why it's a pleasure to travel with them.
Another day before the rides to Temara begin.
Have a great night!
OinM
Ten Feet Tall
I am an American. I love my country. Tuesday, in the legendary navy sports coat with the fancy lapel pin, my traveling companions and I had the opportunity to visit the new patch of ground which is on loan to the U.S. at the Embassy of the United States in Rabat. We arrived on a perfect day with only a few clouds dotting an bleu sky.
Guests to the embassy are not allowed to bring ANY electronics inside the grounds. No cameras. No phones, smart or otherwise, no smart watches, no nothing! It also took a while to get 17+ people through the security process at the gate. Once inside, we were able to see numerous gardens and common areas with green sub-tropical and tropical species of plants, making the grounds a wonderful place to take photos, if that was allowed. No photos.
We learned about an initiative by the U.S. State Department to lower illiteracy rates in Morocco's 1st and 2nd grades which is partially implemented. There are many parents and students who can not read Arabic so the new program, gained in a methods exchange with Egypt, is going online in phases over this spring semester and all of the 2016-17 school year. Moroccan Arabic is the main language for grades 1-12, while French is the primary language spoken at most Moroccan universities. It will be very interesting to hear how the program goes.
We also heard from a faculty member from a local university about students learning English. There is an ongoing effort in Morocco to move English up the scale from the 3rd language in the nation behind Arabic and French, to 2nd. French, according to Meriem is dying out in Morocco. We've all learned a few phrases from Meriem in Moroccan Arabic, which is a dialectic offshoot of standard Arabic. It's fun listening to native speakers of Arabic or French switch languages in mid-sentence, depending on the emotion and the subject matter. Sometimes we even hear a smattering of Spanish, then English, then back to Arabic. Then the circle begins anew. Meriem called this code switching.
Everyone in the group has been told the only language to compare with Arabic, as far as learning difficulty for those who are non-Arabic speaking, is Mandarin. Mandarin ain't gonna help anybody in Morocco. Xie xie.
So time was short and I am sure I nearly nodded off once during the two speaker visits but the information was very interesting and we were all glad we visited that day. The State Department rep scooted everyone along and we were checking in our visitor badges then on the bus. There were some curious birds nesting just outside the embassy fence. When the G4S security officers told some of our group not to take pictures they said, "From the end of the driveway".
Walking back out across the scenic embassy grounds, I asked an embassy attendant if there were U.S. Marines present at the embassy. He pointed over to the opposite side of the campus and said "There are Marines over there". "In the buildings?" I asked. No. At the outside gate. Turns out we had entered a diplomat gate. Nothing like special treatment when visiting U.S. territory in a foreign country.
I had my navy sport coat. I had my lapel pin, shining in the sun. I had other Americans around me. I was walking on American soil. I was John Wayne, Bruce Willis, Toby Keith, Jim Thorpe and Will Rogers rolled into one. I was ten feet tall!
Guests to the embassy are not allowed to bring ANY electronics inside the grounds. No cameras. No phones, smart or otherwise, no smart watches, no nothing! It also took a while to get 17+ people through the security process at the gate. Once inside, we were able to see numerous gardens and common areas with green sub-tropical and tropical species of plants, making the grounds a wonderful place to take photos, if that was allowed. No photos.
We learned about an initiative by the U.S. State Department to lower illiteracy rates in Morocco's 1st and 2nd grades which is partially implemented. There are many parents and students who can not read Arabic so the new program, gained in a methods exchange with Egypt, is going online in phases over this spring semester and all of the 2016-17 school year. Moroccan Arabic is the main language for grades 1-12, while French is the primary language spoken at most Moroccan universities. It will be very interesting to hear how the program goes.
We also heard from a faculty member from a local university about students learning English. There is an ongoing effort in Morocco to move English up the scale from the 3rd language in the nation behind Arabic and French, to 2nd. French, according to Meriem is dying out in Morocco. We've all learned a few phrases from Meriem in Moroccan Arabic, which is a dialectic offshoot of standard Arabic. It's fun listening to native speakers of Arabic or French switch languages in mid-sentence, depending on the emotion and the subject matter. Sometimes we even hear a smattering of Spanish, then English, then back to Arabic. Then the circle begins anew. Meriem called this code switching.
Everyone in the group has been told the only language to compare with Arabic, as far as learning difficulty for those who are non-Arabic speaking, is Mandarin. Mandarin ain't gonna help anybody in Morocco. Xie xie.
So time was short and I am sure I nearly nodded off once during the two speaker visits but the information was very interesting and we were all glad we visited that day. The State Department rep scooted everyone along and we were checking in our visitor badges then on the bus. There were some curious birds nesting just outside the embassy fence. When the G4S security officers told some of our group not to take pictures they said, "From the end of the driveway".
Walking back out across the scenic embassy grounds, I asked an embassy attendant if there were U.S. Marines present at the embassy. He pointed over to the opposite side of the campus and said "There are Marines over there". "In the buildings?" I asked. No. At the outside gate. Turns out we had entered a diplomat gate. Nothing like special treatment when visiting U.S. territory in a foreign country.
I had my navy sport coat. I had my lapel pin, shining in the sun. I had other Americans around me. I was walking on American soil. I was John Wayne, Bruce Willis, Toby Keith, Jim Thorpe and Will Rogers rolled into one. I was ten feet tall!
My Moroccan Station in Life
Monday evening's dinner was a prime example of how a teacher from Oklahoma can rise to power quickly in a wonderful nation like Morocco. After a traditional Moroccan hand-washing at the front door, consisting of warm water poured over my hands from a silver tea pot, I was the first person to enter the seating area. This was a traditional Moroccan seating arrangement of a u-shaped sectional type sofas made of large soft pillows. The area wrapped around two rectangular tables with very fancy woven Moroccan table cloths in a U shape.
I had no choice, really, except to scooch (Is that a word or did I just misspell scooch? Yeah. I spelled it right all you English teachers out there!) to the end and sit down at what was actually the foot of the table. When the waiter arrived with bread and olives for the table, he reached across the tables and over some of my colleagues to hand me the basket.
"For the king", the waiter stated! Laughter ensued around the table and I haven't lived it down yet. To add to my meteoric rise in social status here in this incredible land, at lunch the next day, I was seated at one end of the table once again. I was dressed in a navy sports coat with a lapel pin that has the U.S. and Moroccan flags on it. Anyone who has seen my expansive wardrobe knows I never wear a sports coat unless someone has married the love of their life or expired.
The waiter arrived. He sat the bread, olives and sauces on the table in front of me and said "For Le Presidente!" This was the second day in a row I had been granted high status by the locals who laughed along with the rest of the diners at that table. Some of them had been at the table the night before. Their sides were splitting. So were mine. "I know, last night the king, today Le Presidente!" I said.
As we waited for entrees to arrive, Kendra, the IREX facilitator asked us what our favorite part of the experience was so far. Others gave thoughtful examples of grand historic sites or standing on the edge of the Atlantic looking West towards home. I said my many stations of authority here in Morocco. "What do you mean?" she followed. Last night I was king! Today I am Le Presidente! and we're going to be making some changes around here!" Apologies to those with a mouthful of lunch beverage.
So, at Wednesday's lunch I was named Prime Minister by one of the TGC teachers. Can't wait to see where my ascent to power takes me on Thursday, the day we mosey on over to our host school!
Thanks again for reading. Wish you could all be here! It's beautiful.
OinM
I had no choice, really, except to scooch (Is that a word or did I just misspell scooch? Yeah. I spelled it right all you English teachers out there!) to the end and sit down at what was actually the foot of the table. When the waiter arrived with bread and olives for the table, he reached across the tables and over some of my colleagues to hand me the basket.
"For the king", the waiter stated! Laughter ensued around the table and I haven't lived it down yet. To add to my meteoric rise in social status here in this incredible land, at lunch the next day, I was seated at one end of the table once again. I was dressed in a navy sports coat with a lapel pin that has the U.S. and Moroccan flags on it. Anyone who has seen my expansive wardrobe knows I never wear a sports coat unless someone has married the love of their life or expired.
The waiter arrived. He sat the bread, olives and sauces on the table in front of me and said "For Le Presidente!" This was the second day in a row I had been granted high status by the locals who laughed along with the rest of the diners at that table. Some of them had been at the table the night before. Their sides were splitting. So were mine. "I know, last night the king, today Le Presidente!" I said.
As we waited for entrees to arrive, Kendra, the IREX facilitator asked us what our favorite part of the experience was so far. Others gave thoughtful examples of grand historic sites or standing on the edge of the Atlantic looking West towards home. I said my many stations of authority here in Morocco. "What do you mean?" she followed. Last night I was king! Today I am Le Presidente! and we're going to be making some changes around here!" Apologies to those with a mouthful of lunch beverage.
So, at Wednesday's lunch I was named Prime Minister by one of the TGC teachers. Can't wait to see where my ascent to power takes me on Thursday, the day we mosey on over to our host school!
Thanks again for reading. Wish you could all be here! It's beautiful.
OinM
No Case of the Mondays Permitted in Morocco!
Monday morning it was up and at 'em with two sessions of preparation for our experiences here in the form of Meriem's Moroccan History and Culture along with a second meeting spanning the lifetime of Education in Morocco. This was followed by a lunch meeting with Norddine Bendouqi, the President of Moroccan Association of Teachers of English (MATE). He is a key figure in the nation's English teacher training program. He described the goals of MATE's organization. The group is working to prepare teachers to implement "alternative methods" for teaching English to 21st Century non-English speakers, aka, English as a Second Language learners (ESL or ELL).
Breakfast has been tomatoes, fruits, boiled egg, potatoes, olives, juices and numerous other choices. That brings to mind an example of the language barrier on my part. I inadvertently had myself paged at Monday breakfast. When the waitstaff greeted me I wanted them to know I was with IREX. I could see a table full of others from the group and the quickest way I could think to identify myself was to show the host my name tag. The kind gentleman read it,..."Karl Fayshar". He repeated the name to himself, then I pointed to the table where part of my cohort was already enjoying the meal. He walked over to the full table and started asking if anyone there was named Karl Fayshar. Motioning to myself I said "I'm Carl Fisher".And that's how I accidentally paged myself. It's just a clever example of the language barrier creating a humorous situation.
Speaking of humor,...the Moroccans we have met have a very quick-witted sense of humor which isn't wasted on an individual who is the product of immersion in dry Sooner wit. It doesn't matter if we're passing on the sidewalk or purchasing goods from the establishment where they work, the Moroccans have welcomed us warmly on each occasion and are making this cultural immersion a joy to be a part of. Their hospitality transcends the language differences and we definitely feel like honored guests in this beautiful place.
Our working lunch had pasta, slaws, hummus, different kinds of vegetables, meatballs and pepper sauces to name a few items. The food has been very good and we've had several entertaining dining experiences here. There will be more entries about that later.
When lunch was over, we visited a teacher college where teachers of English are being trained. There was a round table discussion with Ecole Normale Superieure (ENS) students and professors. The topic of the afternoon was Education Systems in Morocco and the U.S.. ENS students and our teachers spoke about current issues in our field and most of them were very similar. It was fun to hear student perspectives and the optimism of those currently student teaching. The professors gave us an overview of the college's goals and introduced students, and one alumnus, speaker who runs a successful private sector English program and has put several ENS graduates to work there.
In speaking with a professor afterwards, I found there were 47 ENS graduates last year. I asked if that was enough teachers of English to meet the demand and he said they are getting as many students prepared and graduated as possible to keep up. Interestingly, the goals are the same for the staff here as they are for the one back home. There was a very nice tea reception for us and the ENS crowd. The avocado juice smoothie was a big hit among American teachers. That and the fact we saw a snake cross the sidewalk we were touring on, made a memorable afternoon, unforgettable.
Dar Naji is an authentic Moroccan restaurant and the atmosphere equals the high quality of the food. The waiters are all dressed in traditional Moroccan uniforms and their acrobatic tea pouring ceremony is very entertaining. When internet upload speeds permit, I'll be posting videos of this. The food, chicken, lamb, beef, vegetables and again some incredible sauces with olives and peppers provided a delicious end to a day which had been alternating sunny, overcast, rainy, then cool and clear. The only thing we hadn't done to this point was meet students in the grades we work with at home. Tuesday's schedule would take care of that.
We knew this would be great! Much more soon!
OinM
Breakfast has been tomatoes, fruits, boiled egg, potatoes, olives, juices and numerous other choices. That brings to mind an example of the language barrier on my part. I inadvertently had myself paged at Monday breakfast. When the waitstaff greeted me I wanted them to know I was with IREX. I could see a table full of others from the group and the quickest way I could think to identify myself was to show the host my name tag. The kind gentleman read it,..."Karl Fayshar". He repeated the name to himself, then I pointed to the table where part of my cohort was already enjoying the meal. He walked over to the full table and started asking if anyone there was named Karl Fayshar. Motioning to myself I said "I'm Carl Fisher".And that's how I accidentally paged myself. It's just a clever example of the language barrier creating a humorous situation.
Speaking of humor,...the Moroccans we have met have a very quick-witted sense of humor which isn't wasted on an individual who is the product of immersion in dry Sooner wit. It doesn't matter if we're passing on the sidewalk or purchasing goods from the establishment where they work, the Moroccans have welcomed us warmly on each occasion and are making this cultural immersion a joy to be a part of. Their hospitality transcends the language differences and we definitely feel like honored guests in this beautiful place.
Our working lunch had pasta, slaws, hummus, different kinds of vegetables, meatballs and pepper sauces to name a few items. The food has been very good and we've had several entertaining dining experiences here. There will be more entries about that later.
When lunch was over, we visited a teacher college where teachers of English are being trained. There was a round table discussion with Ecole Normale Superieure (ENS) students and professors. The topic of the afternoon was Education Systems in Morocco and the U.S.. ENS students and our teachers spoke about current issues in our field and most of them were very similar. It was fun to hear student perspectives and the optimism of those currently student teaching. The professors gave us an overview of the college's goals and introduced students, and one alumnus, speaker who runs a successful private sector English program and has put several ENS graduates to work there.
In speaking with a professor afterwards, I found there were 47 ENS graduates last year. I asked if that was enough teachers of English to meet the demand and he said they are getting as many students prepared and graduated as possible to keep up. Interestingly, the goals are the same for the staff here as they are for the one back home. There was a very nice tea reception for us and the ENS crowd. The avocado juice smoothie was a big hit among American teachers. That and the fact we saw a snake cross the sidewalk we were touring on, made a memorable afternoon, unforgettable.
Dar Naji is an authentic Moroccan restaurant and the atmosphere equals the high quality of the food. The waiters are all dressed in traditional Moroccan uniforms and their acrobatic tea pouring ceremony is very entertaining. When internet upload speeds permit, I'll be posting videos of this. The food, chicken, lamb, beef, vegetables and again some incredible sauces with olives and peppers provided a delicious end to a day which had been alternating sunny, overcast, rainy, then cool and clear. The only thing we hadn't done to this point was meet students in the grades we work with at home. Tuesday's schedule would take care of that.
We knew this would be great! Much more soon!
OinM
Sunday, March 6, 2016
Midnight in Rabat
The entire cohort assembled in Atlanta, Georgia Saturday afternoon before flying to Rabat, Morocco via Paris, France. Our traveling TGC facilitator, Kendra navigated our flights and spare time flawlessly, creating a smooth day of travel. After three pleasant plane rides, the tired but positive group exchanged currency and boarded vans headed to the hotel. Meriem, our in-country contact and instructor, greeted us and guided our drivers to our accomodations.
After a nice nap and some cleanup on Sunday afternoon, we gathered for a walk to dinner along the picturesque Bou Regreg River where it empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The smell of salt air, fish and popcorn was in the air as we passed vendors and took pictures. One man on a bench said "Welcome to Morocco" and I replied "Shkra, shkra" pronoun show-krawn, which means thank you in Arabic.
Meriem told us Sunday evenings are very busy times for this river walk. Many people were there with their friends or families. A group of dancers was making local music and dancing. There was a snail vendor, peddling fresh snails, a fresh juice kiosk, a cotton candy stand and other sellers of snacks and drinks.
Dinner was a relaxing time during which Meriem gave us a tutorial in Arabic and the group laughed a lot attempting to pronounce the cononant heavy dialect. We were all relieved to be in the country and excited about the next two weeks.
When we learned about how to tell a host or seller, "I don't eat fish. I don't eat eggs. I don't eat meat.", we were taught how to say "I eat everything": kan-akulkulši (can-uh-cull-cull-she), I raised my arms in the air and said "I just found my catch phrase!" The humor wasn't wasted on this group!
Of course, conversation turned to how school is done in both countries. We described our common perceptions of our technology hungry 21st century students to each other. It was very interesting conversation. After the great food gave way to fatigue, we all walked back to the hotel to rest.
Just wanted everyone to know the Okie is safe in Morocco and has video chatted with the fam back in OK. Looking forward to learning much more about schools, teachers and students in Rabat as we conduct team meetings and tour the capitol city over the next 3 1/2 days! Photos later! Thanks for reading and have a great evening back home.
OinM
After a nice nap and some cleanup on Sunday afternoon, we gathered for a walk to dinner along the picturesque Bou Regreg River where it empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The smell of salt air, fish and popcorn was in the air as we passed vendors and took pictures. One man on a bench said "Welcome to Morocco" and I replied "Shkra, shkra" pronoun show-krawn, which means thank you in Arabic.
Meriem told us Sunday evenings are very busy times for this river walk. Many people were there with their friends or families. A group of dancers was making local music and dancing. There was a snail vendor, peddling fresh snails, a fresh juice kiosk, a cotton candy stand and other sellers of snacks and drinks.
Dinner was a relaxing time during which Meriem gave us a tutorial in Arabic and the group laughed a lot attempting to pronounce the cononant heavy dialect. We were all relieved to be in the country and excited about the next two weeks.
When we learned about how to tell a host or seller, "I don't eat fish. I don't eat eggs. I don't eat meat.", we were taught how to say "I eat everything": kan-akulkulši (can-uh-cull-cull-she), I raised my arms in the air and said "I just found my catch phrase!" The humor wasn't wasted on this group!
Of course, conversation turned to how school is done in both countries. We described our common perceptions of our technology hungry 21st century students to each other. It was very interesting conversation. After the great food gave way to fatigue, we all walked back to the hotel to rest.
Just wanted everyone to know the Okie is safe in Morocco and has video chatted with the fam back in OK. Looking forward to learning much more about schools, teachers and students in Rabat as we conduct team meetings and tour the capitol city over the next 3 1/2 days! Photos later! Thanks for reading and have a great evening back home.
OinM
Wednesday, March 2, 2016
How Was DC?
It was informative. It was energizing. It was communicative. It was collaborative. It was creative. It encouraged critical thinking. It was historical. It was global. It was fantastic.
The weekend was spent feeling very honored for our school and for myself that Principal Corey Barton, Ed.D. could spend 3 days away from his family for the TGC Symposium February 18-20. Thank you to his gracious wife and kids for allowing me to borrow Dr. B.. Thanks to the staff at home who kept daily operations going during the absence. Thank you to my family, nuclear and extended, for the support and encouragement during this program.
We met teachers and administrators from across the U.S., including my IFE partner teacher, Todd Noyes from Ithaca, New York. Todd is a math teacher and upbeat, positive, brilliant gentleman. I roomed with the always entertaining Walt Davis from South Carolina. He is a U.S. Jr. Air Force ROTC instructor and student of human behavior.
Teachers spent the weekend learning about the countries each cohort will visit this spring and summer. Administrators were given an introduction to global competencies in education. There was a lot of brain power at these meetings. I left feeling very confident in all the colleagues involved.
TGC fellows and administrators met for an evening reception on the day of arrival which was a big hit. It was good to get acquainted with all the teachers we'd been working with during the online course, in person. The next day and a half was spent hearing about global education from global citizen/teachers and working together on curriculum reviewing and refinement. The TGC staff was a pleasure to meet and partner with as well.
The food was good. The hotel was very nice and the Capitol building was in view down the street. There were a couple of opportunities for sightseeing without booking extra days. A little election year satire on the last night in D.C. didn't hurt either. The weather was chilly but not unbearable. Overall, it was an extremely worthwhile experience and increased the travelers' comfort level, with upcoming IFE's, for all who participated.
The Moroccan cohort consists of 15 teachers and a TGC in country rep who will accompany the group. They're all great teachers. Over the next two weeks, we will all have the humbling opportunity to experience the culture of the Kingdom of Morocco. This will be an excellent backdrop for our time in Moroccan schools. We are a fortunate and grateful team.
See ya on down the trail,...
OinM
The weekend was spent feeling very honored for our school and for myself that Principal Corey Barton, Ed.D. could spend 3 days away from his family for the TGC Symposium February 18-20. Thank you to his gracious wife and kids for allowing me to borrow Dr. B.. Thanks to the staff at home who kept daily operations going during the absence. Thank you to my family, nuclear and extended, for the support and encouragement during this program.
We met teachers and administrators from across the U.S., including my IFE partner teacher, Todd Noyes from Ithaca, New York. Todd is a math teacher and upbeat, positive, brilliant gentleman. I roomed with the always entertaining Walt Davis from South Carolina. He is a U.S. Jr. Air Force ROTC instructor and student of human behavior.
Teachers spent the weekend learning about the countries each cohort will visit this spring and summer. Administrators were given an introduction to global competencies in education. There was a lot of brain power at these meetings. I left feeling very confident in all the colleagues involved.
TGC fellows and administrators met for an evening reception on the day of arrival which was a big hit. It was good to get acquainted with all the teachers we'd been working with during the online course, in person. The next day and a half was spent hearing about global education from global citizen/teachers and working together on curriculum reviewing and refinement. The TGC staff was a pleasure to meet and partner with as well.
The food was good. The hotel was very nice and the Capitol building was in view down the street. There were a couple of opportunities for sightseeing without booking extra days. A little election year satire on the last night in D.C. didn't hurt either. The weather was chilly but not unbearable. Overall, it was an extremely worthwhile experience and increased the travelers' comfort level, with upcoming IFE's, for all who participated.
The Moroccan cohort consists of 15 teachers and a TGC in country rep who will accompany the group. They're all great teachers. Over the next two weeks, we will all have the humbling opportunity to experience the culture of the Kingdom of Morocco. This will be an excellent backdrop for our time in Moroccan schools. We are a fortunate and grateful team.
See ya on down the trail,...
OinM
Tuesday, March 1, 2016
Cultural Exchange Padlet
Here is a padlet I've been working on recently to learn about Morocco and to help the teachers and students from Morocco understand the cultural background here in Oklahoma. Hopefully this will create understanding between the cultures during the International Field Experience.
Enjoy!
OinM
Enjoy!
OinM
Tuesday, February 9, 2016
The Start of Something Extraordinary
Welcome! This is the chronicle of a teacher from Oklahoma, going on an educational adventure to Morocco. Interestingly enough, that's how this blog got its title. Enjoy reading and if you have any do's or don'ts for travel in Morocco, post a reply. Thank you!
This story began in the spring of 2015 when the International Research Exchange Board (IREX) and Teachers for Global Classrooms (TGC) selected teacher applicants from across the U.S.. IREX & TGC, along with the U.S. Department of State, facilitate international field experiences (IFE) for TGC Fellows. After an 8-week online graduate course in Global Education, the fellows meet together in Washington D.C. for a symposium. The fellows are divided into travel cohorts and sent to schools around the world in places like Georgia, The Philippines, Senegal, Columbia, Brazil and of course Morocco.
So, at this writing, Okie in Morocco is set to travel to D.C. where the learning continues.
Thanks for joining in the fun at the head of the trail,...
OinM
This story began in the spring of 2015 when the International Research Exchange Board (IREX) and Teachers for Global Classrooms (TGC) selected teacher applicants from across the U.S.. IREX & TGC, along with the U.S. Department of State, facilitate international field experiences (IFE) for TGC Fellows. After an 8-week online graduate course in Global Education, the fellows meet together in Washington D.C. for a symposium. The fellows are divided into travel cohorts and sent to schools around the world in places like Georgia, The Philippines, Senegal, Columbia, Brazil and of course Morocco.
So, at this writing, Okie in Morocco is set to travel to D.C. where the learning continues.
Thanks for joining in the fun at the head of the trail,...
OinM
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